Friday, 12 September 2025

Kirkwall, Orkneys

Thursday 11 September

With the full day visit to the Shetlands cancelled early yesterday morning due to the expected deteriorating weather with increasing winds, the ship managed to negotiate a half-day stop at sea off Kirkwall in the Orkneys for a tender transfer to the mainland.  Approaching the anchorage we noted both Gannet and Herring Gull in addition to the Manx Shearwater and many Fulmars on the approach.  A Cormorant flew out from the harbour and even a Razorbill noted on the sea. 

Gannet Morus bassanus (Juvenile below)

So much for the 12.30 arrival as it was almost 2.30 before the tendering commenced which meant Jenny and I were not ashore until just on 3pm with the last return tender at 6.30.  What to do?  Too late to take in anywhere distant but we did manage to secure a short taxi drive to Scapa Beach where we were told we might find some birds.  Even better when told the local bus stopped at 5pm for the return ride to the town centre so a good hour’s birding.

Eider Somateria mollissima

However, with the very strong wind coming off the sea across the fine sand it was impossible to take the cliff walk to the east so headed back towards the pier. With fine sand being blasted into our faces to take off the top layer of skin Jenny gave up and decided to take the advice of a local resident and follow the ancient pathway back into town on a journey which would probably take about fifty minutes.  Meanwhile, I carried on towards the pier thinking something might be sheltering from the wind and noting a handful of Pied Wagtails along with an Oystercatcher and a couple of Carrion Crows.

Guillemot Uria aalge

A small raft of gulls just off sore as I approached the pier so took time to use bins and camera and, at the same, time noted the very many waders sheltering amongst the wrack of seaweed on the shore below.  Scores of both Redshank and Ringed Plovers plus a handful of Turnstone.  Many of the Herring Gulls also had well-grown juveniles on the shore but one individual still needs to be identified as it looks much too large for a Herring Gull so possibly either Glaucous or Icelandic Gull. Awaiting confirmation.

Redshank Tringa totanus

Once at the pier a pair of Eider Ducks and looking towards the end under shelter of some sort of vessel a whole flock of Eiders accompanied by a number of Guillemots.  Indeed, many of the latter were close to shore giving perfect photographic opportunities. Continuing back towards the main road and taking special note of all the Ringed Plovers and Redshank I also came across a Hooded Crow.

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula

Approaching the end of the seaweed a couple of Rock Doves (Feral Pigeons) and then, on the first of the sand, a quartet of resting Arctic Terns.

Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea

Time to follow Jenny’s route and take the ancient path alongside a small stream back towards Kirkwall and ending at the local hospital alongside the main road at the large roundabout. As I turned off the country road onto the path to make my way alongside the recently harvested grass, a large number of both Carrion and Hooded Crows plus a few Woodpigeon and Pied Wagtails. In addition, a small flock of Barn Swallows also feeding and resting on the neighbouring fence wires.  All relatively quiet for the remaining walk albeit mid-way I did note a pair of Goldfinch approaching a farm track

Hooded Crow Corvus cornix

So, eventually, back at the ferry port and wait in line for the tender back to the ship.  In theory, all day Saturday on the Isle of Mull with a tender service from ship to Tobermory so, fingers crossed, decent enough weather to actually allow us off ship!

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica

Birds seen:

Eider, Gannet, Cormorant, Manx Shearwater, Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover, Redshank, Turnstone, Fulmar, Herring Gull, Arctic Tern, Guillemot, Razorbill, Rock Dove, Woodpigeon, Barn Swallow, Pied Wagtail, Jackdaw, Hooded Crow, Carrion Crow, Starling, Goldfinch.

Common Gull Larus canus

Guillemot Uria aalge


Herring Gull Larus argentatus (Juvenile above)

Turnstone Arenaria interpres

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